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We offer edge-to-edge longarm quilting services

Longarm Quilting

Longarm Quilting Services

(Visit our Gallery to see samples)


All of our longarm quilting services are completed on our Gammill Optimum Statler Stitcher Longarm. The Statler Stitcher offers state of the art stitch and design precision. We have a selection of over 25,000 quilting patterns and designs.   We will work with you to help you choose the designs and quilting thread that will turn your quilt top into a treasured quilt.


Basting – For hand quilters and/or home machine quilters, basting is done in rows approximately 4” apart. Large stitches make it easy to remove once your hand stitching is  complete.


Edge to Edge (pantograph/all over) - A single pattern is used on the entire quilt top.  Many designs are available to enhance or compliment your quilt’s design.  If you would like to chose your edge-to-edge quilting design, below are some design websites you can visit:

Quilting Prices – includes thread

Open Edge-to-Edge All Over Design -- $.02 - depends upon the design you choose

Dense Edge-to-Edge All Over Design -- $.025 

Semi-Custom (custom border and edge-to-edge in center) -- $.03

You can estimate your quilting costs by multiplying your width measurement by your length measurement and multiplying by .02.  For example: 60" x 70" quilt costs $      (60 x 70 = 4,200) (4,200 x .02).  This the price for quilting.  Batting and additional services are extra.
There is a $50 mininum charge

All backing must be at least 5" inches larger than the quilt top, on all 4 sides.  If you send backing that is not large enough, I will not be able to load it to the long arm frame without adding additional yardage.  This fee will start at $30 to cover the time and additional yardage that will need to be added to the backing.  
If you purchase batting from me, I will seam it free.  If you choose to mail backing yardage directly to me, I am happy to piece your basic backing for $10 per seam

I trim all quilts.  If you do not want your quilt trimmed, please let me know.

I will pay for return shipping through the USPS and I include insurance. 

Preparing Your Quilt

  • Press the quilt top and backing.
  • Please trim all loose threads from the quilt top, on both sides. Dark threads will show through white fabric if not trimmed prior to quilting.
  • Backing must be at least 5″ larger than the quilt top on top, botton and both sides. This allows me to load your quilt properly to the frame.  Addition fees will be billed if I have to add additional yardage to make the backing large enough to load.  
  • Mark the top of the quilt with a pin and post it note, do this for both the quilt top and the backing if your quilt is directional.
  • For best results, quilt top & backing must be square. It cannot be properly loaded if it’s not square.


We prefer to use our batting as we want to achieve the very best stitch quality on your quilt. 

We stock the following batting: 

  •    Quilter’s Dream 100% Cotton Request
  •    Quilter's Dream 100% Cotton Select (mid loft) Natural and White
  •    Quitler’s Dream Polyester - Black
  •    Hobbs Warm and White and Natural
  •    Tuscany Wool
  •    Hobbs 80/20 cotton/poly

Binding Services

  •         Cut, sew and attach binding to quilt top for customer to sew down $.15 per linear inch with fabric you provide.  T
  •         Cut, sew and machine sew binding to quilt $.25 per linear inch with fabric you provide.
  •         NOTE: Making and / or applying curved binding or other special applications will cost extra
  •         Example: Linear inches are calculated by adding all four sides together (60 + 60 + 70 + 70 = 260 x .15 = $39


How to make your own "standard" binding for BRQ to apply:

1. To figure how much binding to make, find the perimeter measurement of your quilt by measure all four sides of your quilt and adding them together.

2. Add an extra 20” to the perimeter measurement for seaming and turning corners.
Example: 280”+15”= 295” total of binding needed.

3. Divide total length of binding needed by length of strips you will be cutting and round up to the next whole number.
(Example: if you need 295" total and are cutting 45" strips from the width of the fabric, you will need 295 / 45 = 6.555 strips. Round up and cut 7 strips.

4. Cut strips. (Strips may be cut widthwise or lengthwise with the grain but you MUST cut bias strips if applying binding to a curved edge.) 

For 3/8" wide finished binding, cut strips 2 1/2" wide.
For a ¼” wide finished binding, cut strips 2 1/8” side.

5. Sew strips together with shortened stitch length and on a 45 degree angle. (Using an angled seam distributes the seam's bulkiness for a smoother finished binding.)

6. Press seams open.

7. Press binding longways with wrong sides together so the finished product is half the cut width (or 1 1/4" wide with cut edges together and a fold on the other side.)

8. To keep binding neat until it is ready to be used either an fold and pin through all layers, wrap around a piece of cardboard and pin the end in place or make jellyroll and pin the end.


Fullness Disclaimer - Fullness and/or puckers within a quilt and its borders cannot be quilted out. We cannot guarantee that puckers and tucks won’t be sewn in. In some cases excessive fullness in borders may result in the quilt corners not being square. The flatter your quilt top is, the better the finished quilt will be.


Mechanical Disclaimer Please be aware that sewing machines including longarm machines are mechanical devices. Although we do our utmost to ensure perfect results every time, on very rare occasions mechanical problems can occur which may cause minor damage to a quilt top and/or backing. We will do our very best to remedy the problem.



  • Monday - Friday: 10:00a - 4:00p
    Saturday: Closed
  • Sunday: Closed